One of the several avenues I take in my fiber art practice is that, using cotton canvas, batting, and thread, I make quilted renditions of maps. When about ten years ago I discovered the beautiful maps known as “the Fisk maps,” I knew right away that I had to give them a go.
“What are the Fisk maps?” you might ask. Short answer: The Fisk maps are a set of fifteen maps created by one Harold Fisk, a cartographer who back in 1944 was commissioned by the U. S. Army Corps of Engineers to map the historical meanderings of the Mississippi River. A Google search for “Fisk maps” will give you several sites featuring images of the maps, of which there are fifteen, covering the territory from St. Genevieve, Missouri, to Donaldsonville, Louisiana.
I realized right away that there must be numerous ways to approach this project — numerous methods I could use. After careful consideration I settled on the one I’ll describe here.
Early on I wrote to the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers to make sure that I may legally use the Fisk map images. They assured me that I may, as the maps are in the public domain.
To date I have made four of the fifteen Fisk maps. Well, I made map #6 twice, so I guess that means that I have made five of them. An astute viewer of my process photos here might note that I’m actually working on two of the maps at the same time — #6 and #8.
Several folks who have seen my social media posts about this project have asked for more detail as to how I made these things. Here ya go:
1. First, I Google “Fisk maps.” From among the search results I choose the one with the best resolution and I save it to my computer. Here’s Fisk map #6.
2. I use blockposters.com to enlarge the image to the size I want. In this case I enlarged to 60” x 40”.
3. I print out the blockposter onto regular 81/2” x 11” paper, which in this case turned out to be 30 sheets (6 down by 5 across to yield a map 60” x 40”.)
4. I use a black fine point Sharpie to bold all the lines that define the river courses. If you skip this step you may not be able to see thru your fabric as required in later steps. I also bold any major lines — creeks, for instance, that might fall outside the cluster of river courses. I also bold the numerals and letters that Fisk so thoughtfully assigned each color.
One or more of the maps features a key that shows the color associated with each number. This comes in useful later in the process.
5. I trim off the bottom border and the right side border of each piece of paper, and I Scotch tape the pieces together to create the full poster.
6. I cut and iron a piece of canvas several inches larger than the map. I use cotton canvas, but there are other possibilities – linen, broadcloth, wool …
7. I pin the fabric to the front of the map and place this fabric/paper map thing over my lightboard, on a table.
8. I use an Ultra Fine Point black Sharpie to carefully trace the map onto the fabric. Since my fabric is always larger than my lightboard, this step requires my moving the lightboard around underneath the map – or my moving the map around on top of the lightboard.
9. I remove the pins and separate the paper map from the fabric. I pin the paper map to my design wall.
10. Working with the fabric on a tabletop, and the paper map within sight, I use Derwent Inktense pencils to color in one river course at a time. This is by far the most challenging part of the process, and requires the most time.
My view when I’m working on this step.
A few of the tools of my trade.
11. After the courses are colored with the Inktense pencils, I use very small brushes to set the Inktense by brushing aloe vera gel over each piece, one color at a time. This serves to “set” the dye.
12. I use a dark brown acrylic paint to color the “current” course of the river. (Current in 1944 when Fisk drew the maps.)
13. I make the quilt sandwich that is comprised of the quilt back, the batting, and the top, which features the map that I have traced and “painted.”
14. Using a heavier, top-stitch thread in dark brown or black, I free-motion quilt on all the Sharpie lines.
15. In addition, to further distinguish between some of the colors that are very similar, I add special stitching within some of the courses. For example: There are nine variations of red on the Fisk map key. Within some of the reds I add stitching to help to distinguish them. In the photo below, though, you’ll see where I used an aqua-colored thread, in two different stitches, to denote color.
16. I go back to regular weight thread and add whatever quilting I want to the white areas outside the main cluster of river courses. I try to remain true to the original map without exactly replicating this part.
17. I “square up” the quilt. That is, I trim all the edges.
18. I finish the edges by adding a facing around all the outside edges.
I’m actually not quite finished with this piece. I plan to go back in and add more free motion stitching in the white areas, and more in some of the colors.